Book Rec of the Day 4/18-4/27/2010
WISEGUYS, STOOGES, AND DAMESOtto Penzler, proprietor of NYC’s Mysterious Bookshop, may well be the greatest crime fiction fan in the world. In this very big collection (more than 1,000 pages), he brings together works by the great (Cain, Chandler, Hammett, Gardner) and the not so great who had their great days nonetheless. The offerings include a previously unpublished story by Hammett and a novel by the man who invented the hard-boiled detective Carroll John Daly. A book to keep you in guilty pleasures for some time.
THE BLACK LIZARD BIG BOOK OF PULPS: THE BEST CRIME STORIES FROM THE PULPS DURING THEIR GOLDEN AGE—THE ’20S, ’30S, AND ’40S; edited by Otto Penzler (Vintage, 2007) |
HIS ILLEGAL SELF, by Peter Carey (Knopf, 2008) |
ROYAL HARLOT: A NOVEL OF THE COUNTESS CASTLEMAINE AND KING CHARLES II, by Susan Holloway Scott (New American Library, 2007) |
SIX DEGREES: OUR FUTURE ON A HOTTER PLANET, by Mark Lynas (National Geographic, 2008) |
THE SHAKESPEARE RIOTS: REVENGE, DRAMA, AND DEATH IN NINETEENTH-CENTURY AMERICA, by Nigel Cliff (Random House, 2007) |
MAN GONE DOWN, by Michael Thomas (Black Cat, 2006) |
ENTERING HADES: THE DOUBLE LIFE OF A SERIAL KILLER, by John Leake (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2007) |
ON GREEN DOLPHIN STREET, by Sebastian Faulks (Vintage, 2003) |
Oerbier is sweet in taste, all the way to the finish, with lots of fruity esters in the aroma. Pleasant and sophisticated, though you may have trouble downing more than one or two—like the other Dolle Brouwers beers, it’s on the heavy side, weighing in at 7.5%/vol. And if you find yourself in Esen, Belgium, this is a personable little family brewery to tour, with a charming pub for sampling.
Smooth caramel-malt sweetness vies with a supple sourness and some hints of vanilla oak. A mellow sugar/acid complexity makes a whispered comparison to a good Modena balsamic—indeed, this wood-aged beer has much in common with that venerable vinegar. This is one of the best examples of the Oud Bruin or Flanders red ale being made today. If you find a bottle, it won’t be cheap, but get it anyway. Not terribly strong at 6.2%/vol., but so interesting and complex, you may be tempted to put down a few.
Unlike Sam Smith’s Nut Brown, this is not a buttery beer. Diacetyl is here, as a result of both yeast and brewing process, but it isn’t the focus. As tradition dictates, hops and malt play the lead roles. The ale’s deep amber hue may make you wonder at the name—but pale ale was initially dubbed in contrast to porter, the most common working man’s beer, so pale was a relative term. Complexly malty up front in flavor, with flowery English hops, and a terse, hoppy finish, this particular pale ale from the northern reaches of York has survived among countless challengers in a country of beer drinkers and won favor the world over. And when you taste it, you’ll realize why.
This looks like a bottle of beer. But it isn’t. Pulque (pronounced “PULL-kay”) is the fermented juice of the maguey, or agave plant, best known as an intermediate product in the making of tequila. But it’s a much older drink than tequila and it’s far more nutritious! The resulting buzz is as unique as the flavor, which is why it was a mainstay in the religious ceremonies of the indigenous peoples of Mexico. When you pull the cold bottle out of the fridge, shake it well. (Don’t worry, it’s not carbonated.) When most of the sediment kicks up to turn it a milky white color, it’s ready to drink. The aroma is musty, yeasty, tart, and a bit fruity. The taste has a fresh fruitiness and a mouthwatering tartness. Finishes with a tangy, slightly chalky bite. Definitely not beer, but about as refreshing a beverage as you’ll find: raw, earthy, and spritzy.
Hmm, what name is synonymous with Irish stout? O’hara’s, you say? Well, okay, that may not be the name that leaps immediately to mind, but this little brewery has an admirable determination to quality and tradition. At a meager 4.3%/vol., O’hara’s spot-on version of Irish dry stout boasts gobs of flavor with little alcohol. Unlike some of the bigger players in the Irish stout market, however, the drinker is actually confronted with hop aroma as well as a firm bitterness. Floral UK hops mingle with roast barley and molasses aromas before roast grain and chocolate flavors attack. A dry, enticingly bitter finish follows. A session stout, but one with huge complexity and a startling freshness.
This premium-style lager may seem familiar on many levels: its clear glass longneck bottle, its pallor, its tropical-themed label. Foam is unsurprisingly white, with a whipped egg-white consistency, but it lingers. No sign of any skunky, light-damaged character, and for a beer stored in a clear bottle, that’s something. Light grainy flavor, but clean—all to say that this beer falls squarely into the “ice-cold thirst-quenching beer for hot fishing trips and lounging in the sand” category. Marketed by Margaritaville Brewing Co., Jacksonville, Florida.
This brown abbey beer is on the heavy side at 8%/vol., and rather sweet, with a clean, simple brown-sugar aroma that carries through in flavor and finish. The higher alcohol content makes for a dry, balanced finish. Strong, yet humble by comparison to other Belgian abbey beers.
An amber ale with a wonderfully rich malt aroma, this cuvée is not unlike classic Scotch ale—with a good helping of Belgian ester complexity. The malts are very well-balanced with the bitterness of the alcohol. The more you drink it, the more it warms. One of the better Belgian strong ales, and that’s saying quite a lot. An updated label now includes the Grimbergen crest.
Like the Germans and Austrians, the Czechs have a deep-rooted love for lager, and they craft some of the finest examples in the world. Bohemian Pils is one of the most essential of beer styles, and fortunately it’s still made by several traditional breweries, Starobrno being one of them. Unlike Pilsner Urquell, Starobrno leans more toward malt than hops. A deep gold color, its carbonation is as soft as the water used to brew it. Malt flavors are full, delicate and sophisticated, with floral noble hops contributing. The finish is clean and lingering. A stellar example not just of Czech beer, but of beer in general.
—H. ALLEN SMITH, UPON TASTING HIS FIRST AMERICAN BEER
Amber hop–infused and hazy, this double IPA is topped by an extraordinarily lush head of lingering foam. A gentle grassy, grainy aroma emerges. What next? Full hop bitterness, assertive up front and in the aftermath. This beer is chewy and full-bodied, but lacking in malt-accented balance. A full-fat (cheesy, creamy, fried) dining experience would counter the assertive hop bite. Hungry?
Labels: beer of the day, book of the day
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home